9/10 Covid-19 Travel Diary: Nassau, Mar. 5

We got a call from our pal Delroy the next morning inviting us out for a night on the town. He would pick us up at 8PM. With our evening to look forward to we set out on the jitney for another island adventure.

Love Beach is tucked away down a secret staircase off of Compass Point resort. Because of its hidden entrance it is often empty. An entire stretch of pristine white sand and turquoise ocean all to ourselves. We felt safe and free. We stretched our muscles in the sun, floating around, feeling the divine weightlessness that comes with salt water submersion. I was so full of gratitude for the friendship of these two incredible women. This trip is just the most recent chapter in the evolution of us. It is the scariest chapter, but not the craziest. I look forward to reminiscing about all of it when we are old and grey. Hopefully, our love for each other will only have grown. Long friendships are rare and so special. There is no one else in the world I would rather have had a near death experience with. For all the shock and terror, we handled ourselves calmly and efficiently and managed to come out the otherside unscathed but for a bit of residual PTSD. Connie and Jenny, my ride or die babes for life.

Back at the house Delroy and his friend arrived right on time. They drove us over to Lyford Cay, the very wealthy, very private end of the island that Prince Andrew, Michael Jackson, Oprah Winfrey and Robert DeNiro have all enjoyed. The gated community on steroids was in the news just before we arrived because Canadian fashion mogul Peter Nygard was just busted for using his oceanview mansion there to run a sex traffiking ring. We pulled up the long dirt road to Philosopher’s Smokehouse, an outdoor party complex with twinkly lights, picnic tables, a cute DJ, and what smelled like delicious BBQ. Under the sweetest protection of our generous friends we wiled the night away dancing until we dropped. I made a gorgeous new friend who looked like a Bahamian Queen. Her name was Cornelia and she had been Nygard’s personal assistant until the week prior. I was dying to hear stories, but we parted ways with promises to get in touch for a brunch that never happened. Connie, Jenny and I stumbled back into the house for a nightcap on the upstairs patio. Everything was alright.

7/10 Covid-19 Travel Diary: Nassau, Mar. 3

I woke up the morning after the robbery with all four of my limbs in pins and needles. Maybe I was so shocked my blood slowed down? I’m not sure, but it was very odd. Connie was right beside me, still wide awake. Jenny was downstairs starfished on the back patio having a coffee and smoking a cigarette in the sun. We called our local pal Delroy and told him the story. He was floored and kindly arranged a driver to take us to the Canadian Consulate. Our driver’s name was Maurice, and he was an angel. He drove us to the back parking lot of a run down strip mall where a tattered Canadian flag hung askew from the second story of shops. Pretty ghetto right off the bat.

There were two dumpy Canadian women working at the consulate where they enjoy the casual working hours of 9am to noon, Monday to Friday. We were there to get Connie a passport. She had piggybacked a work trip on a cruise ship out of Fort Lauderdale directly from Nassau. The consulate woman offered Connie one option; she could issue Connie a one way pass back to Montreal and she could get a new passport there. We were unimpressed and thought there must be another option. Connie decided to give the High Commissioner in Kingston, Jamaica (the closest Canadian Embassy) a call and sure enough, there was another option. They could issue Connie a one year passport and get it to her in time for her departure to Florida in five days. Brilliant! No thanks to the consulate lady. It was nearing noon and the consulate lady played sorry to tell us the closest and cheapest passport photo spot was a twenty minute drive away and $50USD. She sent us on our way telling us to come by with the photos tomorrow morning, but then we may not make the DHL boat to Jamaica with the documents in time. As Connie was filling out her paperwork, I went outside with Jenny and Maurice for some fresh air. We gazed across the street and there was a sign “Roger D. Photo Studio, Passport Photos Done While You Wait $20!” I ran to get Connie as it seemed our luck was changing. The consulate women agreed to wait twenty minutes so we wouldn’t have to hitchhike back to the consulate in the morning and we went over to Roger D’s Photo Studio.

Now Roger D. turned out to be the best photographer in the Bahamas, if the many accolades hanging on his wall account for anything. His studio is full of his gorgeous wedding photos and impressive antique cameras. He said, “Welcome home!” warmly when we entered. He told us to wait just a moment while he readied his studio for Connie’s passport shoot. He fired up his lighting set-up and put on a Billie Holiday record. The mood was romantic and sweet. He had Connie giving all kinds of looks until he was completely spent, at which point Jenny and I burst into a standing ovation. Roger D., our hero!

We waltzed back to the consulate with the coveted passport photos. The ladies were super annoyed now to be working past noon, but we had them, thank goodness. As we were waiting for all the paperwork to be done, I perused the pamphlets section of the office and came across a stack of Roger D. business cards. The swines! They were willing to send us on a wild goose chase after surviving an armed robbery because they needed to get home to watch their kids’ swimming lessons or some shit! I was pissed. But we still needed these lazy slags so I suppressed my anger. In yet another misstep, they sent us to the DHL office to ship the documents to Jamaica after charging Connie close to $500USD for a new passport and a lost passport fee. Rude! What if we had no access to money? What if we didn’t have Maurice’s help and couldn’t get around?

Anyway, we went to DHL and shipped off the documents. Maurice drove us there and then took us home. We were so grateful for his help. We still needed to get some cash, a Blackberry phone charger, and Connie’s medicine. So we set out on foot to The Caves, a shopping centre down the street. We took some photos on the walk in an effort at normalcy. Since Jenny was the only one of us with access to money she agreed to be our sugar momma for the trip and we promised to pay her back upon our return home, bless her heart. We managed to get cash out of the liquor store ATM, but no luck on the charger or perscription. We called a cab from the liquor store and spent the next hour and a half visiting all the pharmacies on the island to no avail. We got a charger though. In the end it was a $70 cab ride. Ouch!

Back at the house again, the sun was setting and we proceeded to get drunk. We closed up the first floor of the house, storm shutters and all, which was now a necessity, and hung out on the second floor balcony, which had a great view of the street in front of the house and the ocean beyond that. We felt good up there from our vantage point, until a car cruised by us slowly and pulled into the neighbours driveway. I got spooked and we ran inside and locked up the whole house. Like three Rapunzels we drank the night away trying our best to laugh about it all. Just as we were going to bed I noticed police lights across the street. I planned to call the cops about it in the morning. We were exhausted…

 

6/10 Covid-19 Travel Diary: Nassau, Mar. 2

With all my bags packed and ready for another adventure, this time with my girlfriends in the Bahamas to celebrate my bachelorette, I sailed back through security at YYZ and posted up in terminal one awaiting my zone’s boarding call. The plane was completely full and poised for take-off on the runway when the captain’s engine light went on and we aborted the mission. The plane taxied back to the gate and the passengers unboarded with instructions to keep an eye out for our new plane’s gate posting. Two hours later I was en route. Emails from Connie and Jenny revealed that they were both also delayed. We should have taken the hint…

At long last the three of us found one another in the Nassau airport, grabbed a cab to Connie’s family home there, dropped our bags, hopped in the car, did a big grocery shop for the week, and set about making a beautiful dinner. We had spaghetti limone with seared scallops, parmesan and kale with red wine. Sated and settling into our new tropical paradise we adjourned to the front patio for another glass of wine al fresco. With the backdrop of ocean waves crashing onto sand, we got into a passionate discussion of the importance of setting intentions and the incredible ways the universe always gives us exactly what we need, but never in the ways we expect.

And then, there was a man holding a gun to Jenny’s head. Then there were three more masked men with guns pointed at us. They pushed us inside the house insisting we keep quiet and demanding our money. “Okokokokokokokokok.” Jenny got her cash out of her wallet. “Herehereherehere.” Connie gave them her cash as well. My heart was exploding in my chest, but on the surface, a very strange calm came over me. I just stood in front of the thief with his gun on me and said, “I don’t have any money.” There were three men with three guns pointed at us while the fourth was going through the upper floors of the house. “Where is the safe?”

“There is no safe here,” I replied.

“Do you want to die tonight?” my assailant asked me.

“I’m not sure. Maybe. Are you going to kill me?” I replied with more sass then I was prepared for.

“You’re not scared,” my assailant observed moving closer to me. Just then, the man who had been searching the house dropped his gun down the stairs and the clip fell out. Again, with more sass than I was prepared for, I kissed my teeth and called them amateurs. At that point they seemed to get nervous, grabbed what they could and ran away into the dark cover of night.

We were all ok. We were unharmed. We had angels watching us. We locked all the doors and put down the storm shutters. We took a few deep breaths. Then we assessed the damage. They took my phone and wallet with my cash and cards, but managed to miss my laptop, hard drive and cameras. They took Jenny’s wallet as well, but in an impressive ninja move, she had dumped all her cards under a pile of tampons in her knapsack when she grabbed her cash to hand over, successfully camouflaging them. Jenny had packed her laptop in a stained, torn old manila envelope that was also left untouched. And in another very crucial moment, the thieves had picked up Jenny’s phone, but after realizing it was a Blackberry, put it back down. Blackberry really should sell their product as the “anti-theft phone.” They took Connie’s entire carry-on bag with her passport, wallet, phone, brand new iPad, meds, make-up etc. We called the police. The Royal Bahamas Police showed up in 20 minutes and took a look over the house. They said we could just let it go, or we could come to the station, give statements and then they would open a case. We piled into the back of the police cruiser and went to the station.

Three officers took us into three separate rooms to give our statements. The 12 ft square, concrete, windowless room with a view into the hallway containing a dried up old mop and bucket that I ended up in made me feel surreal. The lady cop in uniform, but with a bootleg Guess fashion five panel hat on her head, got out her pad and pen and asked me to tell her what happened, just like in the movies. It was then that I realized something about shock; it works on you to forget as a defense mechanism. Even though the robbery had just happened, my recollection of it was foggy. I gave the best statement I could and met the girls back out in the lobby. They rushed us out of there with no paperwork and took us back to the house. The forensics guy met us at the house and dusted it for prints. He found one partial. Then they left. We secured the house again. We had one phone and one credit card. We were going to be ok. We  thanked God Connie’s kids weren’t there. I crawled into bed with Connie, and Jenny said she was ok to sleep alone. None of us slept…

CopCarBW-1

New Providence Travelogue Part One: The Scott Mansion

Nassau Mansion-19 Nassau Mansion-18

YOLO

DEEP SOCK’N/TASTE IT

Nassau Mansion-16

The FUTURE is NOW

Nassau Mansion-10

REALITY iS WHAT U MAKE

Nassau Mansion-6

Suck Something Sweet / Who Run dis world / Girls Bitches

Nassau Mansion-7

BEAUTY IN THIS BEASt…..

Nassau Mansion-9

Biggie

Nassau Mansion-2

Jungle ASS or get Blast

Nassau Mansion-15 Nassau Mansion-14 Nassau Mansion-13 Nassau Mansion-12 Nassau Mansion-11 Nassau Mansion-3 Nassau Mansion-8  There was an island wide black out on New Providence Island over the past two days and nights that led to the kind of human celebrating and real talk that can only be had when we are forced to survive without our cell phones or tablets, our coffee-makers, our stove tops, our lights, our refrigerators, our AC etc. With the BBQ fired up and many candles lit uninterrupted quality time was had by all. Of course the rum shack across the street runs on a generator all the time and, boy, was he doing a great business. In the eerie vibe we took an afternoon drive around the perimeter of the island and stumbled upon a glorious mansion that had all its windows shot out and was grown over like the Secret Garden. Of course I had to explore further. Crossing my fingers that it wasn’t a working drug den and a dude with a machine gun wouldn’t pop out of the shadows and start unloading rounds I gingerly stepped over the floor of broken glass in my flip flops and marvelled at the tattered wealth. It is old hat for artists to join elements of the sacred and the profane as a sure way to create something beautiful and this dilapidated mansion, an example of rotting wealth, was a prime example of such beauty. I hope you enjoy the exploration as much as I did. xo